Running with the Sun: Bryce Canyon 50 Mile Ultra
The sun beats down as I skirt along the red hoodos and banded ravines. Not much stirs, even the air is still. Carrying a couple of liters, I have plenty of water to quench my thirst. But, goodness, it’s hot. I am looking forward to a good dousing of cool water on my dusty feet.
Sandwiched between Zion and Bryce Canyon National parks, is a trail race that threads itself along the Paunsaugunt Plateu, a tableland rising up to 9,500’.. Located in southwestern Utah, it’s a lonely, unpopulated land filled with dramatic cliffs, ridge lines and endless vistas. It’s incredible landscape, but it’s not easy.
The exposed, arid landscape tries to cook runners.
Before things heated up on a day late in May, the race in a sense, started in Wisconsin. All races really begin when training commences in earnest. Mine started about 9 months prior. While I’d done ultras in the past and was no stranger to trail running, I had taken a brief 5 year hiatus to care for some family needs and do more backpacking.
Through a frigid Wisconsin winter, I worked towards building milage. When I had a good fitness base under me, I added strength training and hills. Lots of hills. On the western side of the state we don’t have long mountainous climbs, so my training consisted of repeating hills of around 200’ for hours on end at a local state park. Later in my training, I did a solo, 40 mile run up on the Superior Hiking Trail in northern Minnesota which helped mimic some longer climbs and hours on feet. Because this was my first western race at altitude, I figured mimicking the hours I expected to endure out west would position me to finish. Or so I hopped. Plus, I had recently hiked a good portion of the John Muir Trail in California, so I had a pretty good idea of how my body would respond at higher altitudes.
Initially, I was planning on doing this race without support. In the end my husband and son came to help crew and a good friend who loves a challenge and is very strong physically, came to pace me at mile 37. Everyone was a valuable contribution to my finishing this race and I personally wouldn’t attempt it the first time without a crew and/or pacer.
Get high or risk going home.
We decided to fly out to Utah 6 days prior to the race. Not only did it provide a great opportunity to explore the area, but it gave me a lot of time to acclimate. The race starts at around 7,000’ and goes up to 9,500’. While many people may not be too bothered by that altitude, I did run into a number of people from other areas of the country on course who had not acclimated and were struggling with it.
The race was staged with 100 milers going first. Our group started at 5:30am when it was nice and cool. Part of my strategy has always been to start out with a decent pace, not to fast but not too slow so that I can put time in the bank. This race had two cut-offs. One was at Mile 32.4. Everyone had to be at or past mile 37.6 by 6:30pm or get pulled from the course. The final cut-off was at the end. Everyone was given 17.5 hours to finish the race.
The race started with a 2 mile climb along single track up into the plateau. Like every other race I’ve done, it’s filled with jangled nerves and excitement. Most runners I encounter seem to feel the same way. It took me about 8 miles into the race to find my grove and relax. Throughout the race there are a number of aid stations. Some are water stops only while others have a full smorgasbord of food. Everyone I encountered at the aid stations was super helpful and kind. I did pack a few drop bags, but kept what I needed to a minimum as my crew carried extra stuff. Pro tip…have your family add a surprise snack or note to your drop bag, it’s really encouraging.
By mile 24.5 the heat had picked up. As the route neared the aid station, we were blanketed with heavy dust from cars going to and from the aid area. Even though I wore a buff, it was impossible to keep the dust out of my lungs. Cars tried to go slowly, but it didn’t make a difference. Later, this really aggravated my asthma.
Because I carried my Garmin InReach I was able to text my crew and ask them to have a deli sandwich and cold Coke ready at the next aid station. There’s nothing like cold soda on a hot day. It’s gas for me and races are the only time I indulge in drinking it.
Runners slowly working their way down towards Red Canyon aid station on the northern end of the race loop.
Trails dip and wind through Red Canyon. Super cruisey.
The trail rolls, climbs and dips through crimson canyons and hoodoos the colors of sunset.
The following section became really scenic as the single track wound through the northern end of Dixie National Forest and Red Canyon. As a midwesterner, the landscape was especially engaging and unique. I found all the sights, sounds and scents really engaging.
After doing a loop out and back from miles 32.4 and 37.6 (shared aid stations), I washed my feet, changed socks, stuffed my pack with more snacks and headed into the final section of the trail with my pacer, Anna. It was a huge encouragement to have a pacer. As we headed up the long climb from the aid station, we talked about some of my ongoing needs and preferences. We had discussed a working plan pre race, but it’s always good to be flexible based on a runners current needs. I told her I was happy to listen to her talk, sing or be silent, but that I didn’t have the energy for responding with much engagement. She also happily shlepped another coke along.
Is it really 50 miles?
As we made our way along, enjoying each others company, the section felt quieter, more remote. But that likely was due to the fact that fewer runners were on course and it was getting towards sunset. This area also had a lot of ups and downs. Just when we figured that we were done, there were plenty more. Don’t be fooled, ha! Once it got dark and our watches alerted us that we were at the 50 mile mark. But there was no finish line to be seen. We started to wonder why we hadn’t passed the final aid station, which is situated about 2 miles from the finish line. Certain we weren’t lost as confirmed by the bright trail flagging, we discovered later that the route is actually 52-53 miles long depending on your GPS. Maybe I missed it somewhere in the information and not all races are to the number, but it would have helped mentally to have known this. We ran into many runners who were scratching their heads as well.
By the time we reached the final aid station - glorious - we half ran, half stumbled down the final couple of miles to the finish line. Based on my estimates, I figured that I had not made the final 17.5hrs cut off, and was resigned to be satisfied with having finished the race. My only goal for this race was to finish it.
Only minutes left to spare.
But then we heard music and saw the finish line lights and lo and behold I was under the cut off. Yay! Digging into whatever reserves I had left, I ran the last block to the finish line, finishing with 12 minutes to spare. Whew! What relief. I was so happy to have completed my first western race at altitude, especially when nearly 50% of the 50 milers had dropped.
What an incredible entry back into the world of ultras. It’s hard to say what will be next, but I do like the 50 mile distance as I know I have a bed waiting for me at the end of the night. Experiencing a race in a location geographically different from my home was a huge highlight. The flora and fauna so diverse. I’ll always carry with me the heated scents of sage and Ponderosa pines that are so iconic of the west.
GOOD TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
Vacation Races put on a great event. It was well organized and supported by numerous volunteers! Thanks to all for your investment and time! I’d do a race with VR again if I get the chance.
Consider this race carefully if it’s your first 50 miler. This was my 5th time doing a 50 mile distance. It’s a tough 50 miles with plenty of exposure, rocks, dust, sun, elevation change and heat. There are other distances within this race that you can sign up for. Possibly do a 50 miler closer to home to gain experience. This is the training plan I follow but it doesn’t include the weekly elevation gain I added in. Closer to the end of my training, my total elevation each week varied between 4,000’ and 6,000’.
Acclimate. I can’t emphasis this enough. Even if you can only go a few days prior to the race, do it and acclimate at 8,000-9,000’. This includes sleeping at those elevations and not just briefly visiting.
Train in some heat. This provides you the opportunity to dial in your gear and test out your drinking and fueling.
Wear long sleeves. It’s arid and the sun is ever present. I wore a hooded, Patagonia Sunshade hooded shirt and it worked great. Other runners opted for sleeveless tops and it looked like they were frying. A long sleeve will stay semi-damp with sweat and keep you cooler. Then, when you get to the aid station, take your shirt off and soak it in cool water for a refreshing boost.
Drink and eat. Seems obvious, right? However, it’s not uncommon for our stomachs to go semi dormant as blood flow is impaired. Here are 4 tips for preventing and managing stomach issues. Lastly, when I train, I train with the same or similar foods that I will consume during my races. That way I’ve had lots of opportunity to weed out what works or doesn’t work.
Do a body check every couple of house. Are you feeling cool enough and hydrated? How are your feet? Do you feel a hot spot (rub) starting? Have you been eating every 1/2 hour? Do you need to reapply any ointments or creams? What will help you boost morale? Maybe it’s talking with another runner, being silent or listening to music. If something arrises, deal with it immediately if you can.
Carry an emergency kit. I carry blister pads, Vanicream, lip balm, chafing stick, sun block, a few assorted bandaids, assorted medications, an emergency blanket, wet wipes, whistle, bic lighter and small headlamp. Because this race is a bit more remote and cell service spotty, I carried my Garmin InReach out of caution. Then I always had the ability to communicate with my crew.
Use electrolyte powder or tablets that you’ve tested in training.
Research the conditions you may encounter and include training in similar conditions.
Leave a resupply bag with your crew. My crew had a duffle filled with marked bags of additional emergency supplies, snacks, food, beverages, towels, clothing, jackets, batteries, shoes and socks. They also had a collapsible chair set up for me at the aid stations. Note: I met up with my crew 3 times during the race.
Check out the list of gear that I brought west. Most of it I used, some of it I brought just in case.
The race is held near Panguitch, Utah and is roughly 4 hours from Las Vegas, NV or Salt Lake City, UT or 2 hours from St. George, UT. If you find yourself needing a critical piece of equipment, you’ll want to shop in one of those cities. Panguitch does have a pretty good grocery store and hospital, but the town is pretty small. The pre-race packet pick up area also had some runner specific supplies for sale like sun glasses and electrolytes.
Note that the race takes place in Dixie National Forest and Red Canyon which are about 30 minutes from Bryce National Park.
Are you ready to go run a Bryce Canyon Ultra? Go for it!
